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Exploring Chinese Buddhism at Jing'an Temple and Xiahai Temple in Shanghai

Ngoc Ngoc Follow Dec 20, 2023 · 4 mins read
Exploring Chinese Buddhism at Jing'an Temple and Xiahai Temple in Shanghai
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A Brief Overview of Chinese Buddhism

Chinese Buddhism has a long history spanning over 2,000 years. During the Han dynasty in the 1st century CE, Buddhism began spreading from India to China along the Silk Road. Two major schools of Chinese Buddhism emerged - Chan/Zen Buddhism and Pure Land Buddhism. However, Vajrayana or Esoteric Buddhism was mostly lost in medieval China due to religious persecution, only surviving in certain regions like Taiwan and Tibet. Most Chinese temples today follow Chan/Zen traditions which emphasize meditation and direct experience over rituals.

A Glimpse into Esoteric Buddhism at Jing’an Temple

Located in central Shanghai, Jing’an Temple is unique for preserving esoteric Vajrayana traditions. Originally founded in the early Tang dynasty over 1,700 years ago, it was completely destroyed during the Cultural Revolution but rebuilt in the 1980s. Jing’an Temple houses the largest collection of Buddhist statues practicing the Shingon sect in mainland China. Shingon Buddhism originated in 8th century Japan but traces its lineage back to Indian monks who transmitted esoteric tantric teachings to China. After facing persecution, Vajrayana Buddhism was nearly extinct in China except for remote areas, making Jing’an Temple a rare landmark.

An Authentic Chinese Buddhist Experience at Xiahai Temple

For a more locally immersed experience, Xiahai Temple offers insights into everyday Chinese Buddhist culture outside of the tourist spotlight. Located down narrow alleyways, it’s surrounded by lively wet markets, street food vendors and a modest Buddhist canteen. Visiting the bustling alleys feels like stepping back in time to old Shanghai. The simple vegetarian lunches served in the temple canteen at affordable prices gives a taste of monk cuisine. Wandering through this lively cultural heartland offers a genuine glimpse into ordinary Chinese spiritual life.

Exploring Jing’an Temple

Blending architectural styles from China and Tibet, the rebuilt Jing’an Temple complex, though touristy, retains historical significance as Shanghai’s sole repository of esoteric Buddhist traditions nearly erased elsewhere in China. Its grounds are expansive yet seamlessly integrated into the modern cityscape. Colorful sculptures of wrathful deities like Wisdom Kings found in Vajrayana line walkways, contrasting grandiose golden Buddhas. Ritual ceremonies still follow esoteric Tantric styles involving elaborate mudras, mantras and mandalas. English signs provide cultural context appreciating its vital role preserving a vanished spiritual heritage.

Traces of Tang Dynasty Roots

An ancient stone stele from the Song dynasty nestled within, weathered yet still legible, traces the temple’s origins to AD 247. Bronze bells and wooden fish lanterns dangling outside recall architectural features of China’s earliest wooden temples. Along southern walls, a series of renovated archways from various dynasties stand witness to its enduring role as a holistic cultural center. Wandering its grounds marveling at meticulously restored centuries-old details offers a glimpse into China’s cosmopolitan Tang era religious zenith.

Immersing in Xiahai Temple’s Local Community

In stark contrast, humble Xiahai Temple tucked down alleys exudes a lived-in village vibe. Outside, crowds browse vegetable and seafood stalls under colorful awnings. Smells of frying noodle dishes and mouthwatering bakery treats waft invitingly. Monks in grey robes casually weave between shoppers. Chatting housewives young students all mix casually, indistinguishable from elsewhere in old Shanghai. Stepping inside, its simplicity feels refreshingly sincere - gilt long faded, decorations sparse but well-loved.

Experiencing Daily Monastic Life

Beside, a modest canteen serves pilaf rice, steamed buns and hotpots. Watching monks line up receiving identical wood bowls of food shows a continuity with Buddhist roots worldwide. The diet emphasizes nutrition, harmony and equality over luxury, mirroring spiritual teachings. Friendly servers prepare extra helpings for curious foreign visitors and chat easily about temple history. Afterwards, wander back lanes spotting prayer flags and children playing outside family shrines, feeling one with the real neighborhood rhythms.

Appreciating Diversity in Chinese Buddhism

Both landmarks showcase contrasting yet authentic facets of Chinese Buddhist life. Jing’an Temple preserves centuries-old esoteric traditions while revitalizing cultural heritage. Its grand scale appeals to spiritual heritage tourists. Meanwhile Xiahai Temple maintains daily devotions and community roots within a bustling streetscape. Here ordinary folk immerse in folk beliefs blending Buddhism with Confucian piety and Taoist nature worship.

China’s Vibrant Buddhist Future

Visiting both highlights how Chinese Buddhism, though facing vicissitudes, remained dynamic by adapting inward orientations. Monks still transmit Dharma through education, social services and revival movements. Though state-run, temples autonomously pursue spiritual and charitable mandates. Younger Chinese rediscover beliefs through meditation, vegetarianism and environmentalism, ensuring traditions remain relevant for modern lives. Combining grand historical sites with humble neighborhood temples offers a fully rounded perspective on Chinese Buddhism’s richly textured past and promising future. Exploring Chinese Buddhism at Jing'an Temple and Xiahai Temple in Shanghai

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